Bulgari: the Roman jeweller who dared to use colour when everyone else chose white diamonds
Born in Rome, desired everywhere
Bulgari is one of those rare jewellery houses you can identify at a glance — not because of a logo, but because of a voice. Bold shapes, intense colours, gold worn with confidence. Since 1884, the brand has built an aesthetic so specific and so consistent that it has become a language of its own.
That language was born in Rome. And Rome never really left it.
The Greek silversmith who chose Via Condotti
Sotirio Bulgari was born in 1857 in Paramythia, in the Greek region of Epirus. A trained silversmith, he arrived in Rome and in 1884 opened his first shop on Via Sistina. A few years later, the move to Via Condotti — soon to become one of the world’s most famous luxury addresses — gave the business its permanent home and its identity.
Rome’s ancient architecture became Bulgari’s creative foundation. The geometry of the Colosseum, the mosaics of the thermal baths, the warm palette of travertine and marble: these weren’t decorative references. They were the actual basis of a visual language that still shapes every collection made today.
The rules they broke — and why it worked
In the 1950s, high jewellery was largely a French affair: platinum, white diamonds, restrained elegance. Giorgio and Costantino Bulgari, Sotirio’s sons, made a deliberate choice to go in the opposite direction. Yellow gold when platinum was standard. Coloured gemstones — emeralds, rubies, sapphires, amethysts — when diamonds dominated. Cabochon cuts when the brilliant cut was king.
It should have been a commercial risk. Instead, it became a defining moment. Elizabeth Taylor, whose relationship with Bulgari jewels was well-documented and deeply personal, wore pieces from the house at events, on screen and in private. She once said she had learnt a few words of Italian in Rome — and all of them were “Bulgari”. The line between fact and legend matters less than what it reveals: for decades, Bulgari and a certain kind of glamour were inseparable.
Bulgari’s most iconic collections
B.zero1
Launched in 1999, the B.zero1 ring is one of the clearest examples of what Bulgari does best: translating Roman architecture into wearable form. The spiral cylinder was drawn from the Colosseum — layered, structural, immediately recognisable. What followed was a full collection of bracelets, necklaces and earrings that has remained contemporary for over two decades without ever feeling like a retread.
Discover the history of the Bulgari B.Zero1 collection
Serpenti
The serpent has been part of Bulgari’s visual vocabulary since the 1940s — not as a passing ornament, but as a permanent symbol of transformation, seduction and energy. The Serpenti watch-bracelets of the 1950s and 60s — worn by Anna Magnani, Ingrid Bergman and Sophia Loren — are among the most sought-after vintage pieces on the market today. The line continues to evolve, but its character has never wavered.
Divas’ Dream
The starting point was the 2nd-century mosaics in Rome’s Baths of Caracalla. The result is a collection built on fan-shaped motifs, warm carnelian tones and rose gold — a quieter side of Bulgari, but unmistakably so. Divas’ Dream shows a different register of the brand’s personality: softer in line, equally rich in historical reference.
Parentesi and Tubogas
Tubogas is one of the house’s oldest technical signatures: gold twisted without soldering, flexible and tactile in a way that feels entirely different from a standard chain. Parentesi plays with architectural tension and asymmetry. Both prove that Bulgari’s design language needs no gemstones to make a lasting impression.
Bulgari on the pre-owned market: what collectors look for
Among the major Italian jewellery houses, Bulgari is consistently one of the strongest performers on the secondary market. Pieces like the B.zero1 ring, Serpenti bracelet and Tubogas bangle are actively sought by collectors across Europe, the US and Asia. Year of production, condition, metal quality and provenance all factor into pricing — but demand holds steady regardless of fashion cycles.
A Bulgari piece bought today remains as desirable a decade from now. That kind of staying power is rarer than it looks.
Bulgari at ReLusso
At ReLusso we select authentic, verified Bulgari jewellery restored through our proprietary Luxurigen™ process. Every piece is chosen for its condition, its history and its desirability — not to fill inventory, but because it is genuinely worth wearing.
Discover the Bulgari jewellery available at ReLusso
Brand transparency
ReLusso is not an official dealer or authorised retailer of Bulgari or any other brand featured on this website, and has no direct commercial relationship with the brand owners.
All jewellery from the brands featured on this site is sourced from private individuals, carefully selected and restored. ReLusso guarantees the absolute authenticity and perfect integrity of all items sold, within the limits and under the guarantees provided by law.
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